Tunel Grič: Jučer i danas za bolje sutra?

Tunel Grič: Jučer i danas za bolje sutra?

Kategorija misc., stručni članci | 19/02/2017 180

Tijekom djetinjstva sam često sa sestrom svoga djeda, tetom Nadom, razgovarala o ratu. Za ženu koja je proživjela dva krvava rata, razgovori o događajima koji su formirali njen život djelovali su mi poput svojevrsne katarze. Priče su svaki put imale neki novi vividni detalj, no jedan koji se neprestano ponavljao u pričama o Domovinskom ratu bio je onaj skloništa u Mesničkoj gdje se skrivala u vrijeme uzbuna. Dugo sam mislila da se radilo o podrumskom skloništu unutar neke zgrade, o kakvima sam čitala i o kakvima su mi pričali. Tek u ljeto 2016. godine, kad se sklonište u Mesničkoj otvorilo javnosti kao velika turistička atrakcija, otkrila sam o čemu se zapravo radi. Sklonište o kojem mi je teta Nada sve te godine pričala bio je podzemni tunel koji je spajao Mesničku, Radićevu, Tomićevu i Ilicu. Od svih detalja, to je bio jedan koji je u njenim bogatim pričama izostao te me tim više njegovo postojanje zaintrigiralo.

Već pri prvom ulasku u Tunel otvorila su mi se brojna pitanja koja su se ponajviše ticala povijesti Tunela i načina prezentacije iste. No, u potrazi za odgovorima stručna je literatura izostala, stoga sam se u pisanju ovog članka oslonila na već pisane novinske članke koji pojašnjavaju povijest i uvode u problematike Tunela Grič, ali i svoje vlastite spoznaje do kojih sam došla provodeći sate hodajući kroz Tunel i razgovarajući s ljudima povezanima s Tunelom na bilo koji način – bili oni turisti, prolaznici, zaposlenici ili arhitekti. Kroz period od studenog 2016. do siječnja 2017. sakupljeno je mnoštvo građe koju su uvjetovala različita događanja koji su se u tom periodu odvili u Tunelu Grič. Rezultat tog istraživanja ovaj je članak, koji je tek odškrinuo vrata propitivanju dosadašnjih i daljnjih mogućnosti koje nudi Tunel Grič.

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Fotografija: Zagreb.hr

Tunel od NDH do Domovinskog rata

Iako je građa o Tunelu zaista minimalna, zahvaljujući ravnatelju Kulturno informativnog centra u Zagrebu Emilu Matešiću, dio priče rasvijetljen je javnosti kroz par izdašnih novinskih intervjua. Povijest Tunela Grič seže u 1943. godinu kada premijer vlade NDH Nikola Mandić inicira izgradnju skloništa, ujedno i prometnog koridora, te na sastanku vlade osigurava pozamašan iznos od 141 milijuna i 200 tisuća kuna za izgradnju i projektiranje Tunela. Prema Matešiću, gradnja Tunela i njegova namjena su od početka bili kontroverzni, pa je tako izgradnja tunela dugačkog 350 metara, s 4 izlaza na Ilicu i dva na Mesničku i Radićevu od svoje prvotne cijene porastao za 29% (Iako Matešić napominje da se radi i o vremenu velike inflacije), dok se završetak projekta od planiranih 90 dana odužio na godinu dana.

Tako je prva javna kritika došla u veljači 1944. godine od Građevnog odbora, tijela čija je uloga bila ocjenjivanja urbanističkih planova. Mišljenje odbora bilo je da je gradnja potpuno nepotrebna te da je s obzirom na kapacitet od 5 000 ljudi projekt neisplativ. Gradnja je ipak nastavljena, ali bez središnje dvorane koja spaja prilazne tunele, odnosno spajanja Radićeve i Mesničke. Međutim, valja istaknuti da je unatoč svemu tome projekt izveden vrlo kvalitetno. Od projektne dokumentacije preko materijala (šljunak iz Zagreba i drvo iz Bosne) pa sve do kvaka, brinulo se oko svake pojedinosti. Matešić navodi da je prema dokumentima iz 1947., projekt inženjera Abramovića, Senjakovića i Vajde ocijenjen je kao vrlo kvalitetan, a iste godine je provedena i naknadna hidroizolacija.

Dostupnost dokumenata o Tunelu staje 1949., s informacijom da je tvrtka Malina tunel koristila za skladištenje svojih proizvoda. Iz neobjašnjenih razloga, Ministarstvo obrane ne dopušta uvid u dokumente nakon tog datuma. Moguće je spekulirati o tome koji su razlozi tomu i radi li se o tajnim političkim sastancima koji su se odvijali u podzemlju, no to je pak tema za neki drugi rad. S obzirom na nepristupačnost dokumentacije, ne možemo sa sigurnošću utvrditi u koje je vrijeme izgrađena velika dvorana koja je prvotno planirana.

Nakon Domovinskog rata tunel se više ne koristi te tako postaje problematičan za grad. Počinju ga naseljavati skitnice i beskućnici.1 Stoga se tunel zatvara i o njemu nema riječi sve do 1993. i kultnog Under City Rave Partyja, kad njegova namjena postaje dijametralno suprotna onoj prvotnoj.

Under City Rave Party 1993.

U tada ratom obilježenoj Hrvatskoj voditelji emisije TOP DJ Mag Damir Cuculić i Irena Šćulić osmišljavaju techno rave spektakl u prostorima Tunela, koji podrškom MTV-a postaje jedinstveno, svjetski prepoznato dostignuće techno scene. Izvorna ideja konceptualnih umjetnika Dražena Grubišića i Nedjeljka Mikca bio je multimedijalni projekt Grubi Mix Labyrinth koji se povezuje s elektroničkom glazbom, pa su tako u prostoru Tunela bile postavljene umjetničke instalacije obasjane svjetlom. Međunarodnim vezama, domaćim sponzorstvom i podrškom Muzeja suvremene umjetnosti koji je ustupio Tunel na korištenje, u Hrvatskoj je ostvaren tulum iznimnog uspjeha i posjećenosti, u spektakularnom prostoru kakav se, prema Cuculićevim riječima, čak ni u Berlinu, ni u cijeloj Njemačkoj nije mogao dobiti na korištenje.

Ekipi je to poslužilo kao nekakva metafora – sklonište koje je služilo samo godinu dana prije za skrivanje od zračnih napada, sada je postalo mjesto gdje se ljudi dolaze zabavljati.” navodi Cuculić.2

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Fotografija: http://mixmagadria.com/feature/jedan-jedini-neponovljivi-under-city-rave-93/

Under City Rave, odnosno Gotterdamerung u Tunel je doveo nevjerojatnu brojku od 3 000 ljudi, i Zagreb pozicionirao u tadašnje vrhove techno rave scene. Prvi put nakon rata Hrvatsku su posjetili Englezi i Nijemci, a prilog o neviđenom tulumu vrtio se na MTV-u.

Nakon legendarnog UCR-a, u prostoru tunela se devedesetih godina održava par izložbi. Sam Matešić kao konceptualni umjetnik izlaže 1993., dok 1995. povodom Dana Zemlje među ostalima sudjeluje i video umjetnik Toni Meštrović. No, tu se priča o Tunelu Grič ponovno gasi. Tunel se zatvara, a električne instalacije radi vlage propadaju. Ljudi na vrata tunela naslanjaju građevinske materijale, te je on nanovo zaboravljen.3

Projekti revitalizacije tunela: pitanje autorstva

Deset godina kasnije arhitektica i profesorica na Arhitektonskom fakultetu Neda Cilinger osmišljava projekt revitalizacije Tunela – Muzej Osjeta. Muzej bi nudio kulturni sadržaj, a prostor bi bio obogaćen raznovrsnim projekcijama, svjetlosnim, audio-vizualnim i multisenzorskim senzacijama, te bi kroz modernu prezentaciju posjetiteljima dao uvid u povijest grada. Mjesto traume na ratna zbivanja tako bi realizacijom projekta postalo mjesto humanosti i kulture.

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Fotografija: http://artur.d-a-z.hr/muzej-osjeta/

No, osim muzealizacije, projekt bi donio i suvremena arhitektonska rješenja: Cilinger predlaže da se središnji dio tunela prokopa i proširi. Na taj bi se način ostvario prostor od 4 000 kvadratnih metara, odnosno troetažna polivalentna dvorana muzeja namijenjena koncertima, većim izložbama i okupljanjima. U cilju prilagodbe osobama svih godišta, a pogotovo osobama s posebnim potrebama, iz dvorane bi se izlazilo liftovima i rampama. Izgrađene bi bile i stepenice preko pokretnih i fiksnih platformi i mostova. Prednost ovakvog oblikovanja također se očituje u dobivanju novih, fleksibilnih i višenamjenskih prostora. Međutim, ni deset godina nakon prijave projekta Gradskom uredu za kulturu grada Zagreba (2004.) i predstavljanja istog na domaćim i međunarodnim skupovima (2007.), projekt nije zaživio.4

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Photo: http://artur.d-a-z.hr/muzej-osjeta/

Već spomenuti Emil Matešić 2012. godine osmišljava sličan projekt u prostorima Tunela Grič te ga prijavljuje na projekt Heritage Under Cities europskih fondova. Glavna je razlika među projektima ta što Matešić smatra da tunel ne treba odviše renovirati, već ga sačuvati kao spomenik prošlosti koji nudi jedinstveni prostor za kreativan rad.5

Ipak, vrlo brzo dolazi do polemike o originalnosti i autorstvu projekta. Dok Cilinger smatra da je njen projekt, autorsko djelo koje je Matešić preuzeo kad mu je ona dala uvid u dokumentaciju i upoznala ga s projektom, Matešić u tome ne vidi ništa sporno. Prema njegovim riječima, on je kroz istraživanje u državnom arhivu razvijao svoju ideju, a kao umjetnik koji je ondje izlagao, dobro je upoznat s prostorima Tunela Grič. Također navodi da je 2012. kontaktirao Cilinger koja mu je rekla da ju projekt umara te da on radi kako misli da bi trebalo. Matešić smatra da je to još jedna ideja namjene tunela, te da se ne postavlja pitanje o autorstvu Ciliger, ali niti o ekskluzivnosti projekta.6

Sporno je i pitanje suradnje i potpisivanja ugovora o izvedbi projekata. Naime, Grad je kao vlasnik Tunela 2005. godine zajedno s Arhitektonskim fakultetom sklopio ugovor na natječaj za podršku upravljanju ESC projektima, CARDS 2004. Projekt ulazi u daljnju proceduru za fond PHARE 2005 ESC, no zbog bruto dohotka većeg od onog koji fond propisuje, projekt je odbijen. Muzej osjeta predstavljen je 2014. godine kao nositelj projekta Sjeverozapadna Hrvatska – regija digitalnih muzeja. U isto se vrijeme od strane Ministarstva regionalnog razvoja i fondova Europske unije odobrava tehničku pomoć u pripremi i razradi projekta, a razlog tomu je sufinanciranje iz fondova EU u razdoblju 2014. – 2020., što označava prestanak suradnje s Arhitektonskim fakultetom. Na pitanje zašto je došlo do prestanka suradnje i financiranja iz EU fondova, Darko Šiško, pomoćnik pročelnika Ureda za strategijsko planiranje i razvoj Grada u intervjuu s Nacionalovom novinarkom Anom Malbašom nije dao odgovor.7

Otvaranje tunela i problemi koje je ono donijelo

Godinu dana kasnije, 30. travnja 2015., na službenim je stranicama Grada Zagreba osvanula vijest o obnovi Tunela ispod Griča, gdje gradonačelnik Bandić posebno naglašava poboljšavanje turističke ponude novom atrakcijom, te je Tunel prepoznat kao iznimna urbana i povijesna vrijednost.8

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Fotografija: Zagreb.hr

Moja pretpostavka jest da je model preuzet iz vrlo uspješnog pulskog projekta Zerostrasse Povijesnog i pomorskog muzeja Istre koji mrežu tunela koja može primiti 6000 ljudi ispunjavaju različitim izložbama vezanima uz povijest grada i koncertima. Ipak, ulaz u Zerostrasse se naplaćuje, a tijekom ljeta predstavlja izvrstan koridor za turiste kojima je u cilju prijeći velike udaljenosti, izbjeći gužve i vrućinu (u Zerostrasseu temperatura se ne penje iznad 18 stupnjeva), ali i educirati se o povijesti grada i umjetničkoj baštini koja se ondje izlaže.9 Valja pak napomenuti da su izložbe nužno pomno promišljene radi specifičnih klimatskih uvjeta i vlažnosti koja u Tunelu vlada. Sličan model iskorišten je u Trstu, u mreži podzemnih tunela pod nazivom Kleines Berlin. Tuneli nastali za vrijeme Drugog svjetskog rata danas nude opciju vodstva, a brojnim eksponatima, plakatima i legendama daju uvid u ratna zbivanja tog perioda.

No, gradonačelnik također uvjerljivo navodi da će u projektu obnove zagrebačkog Tunela Grič sudjelovati cijeli niz stručnjaka: povjesničari umjetnosti, urbanisti, statičari i konzervatori te svatko s korisnim idejama i znanjem o Tunelu.10 Unatoč tome, arhitektica Neda Cilinger, koju je još 2003. godine Gradska uprava angažirala da izradi Studiju iskoristivosti Tunela Grič nije pozvana niti konzultirana kada se krenulo u sanaciju tunela.11 Rezultat te odluke su propusti o kojima će biti govora kasnije.

Tunel je otvoren za javnost 6. srpnja 2016., te je pri samom otvorenju od strane direktorica Turističke zajednice Grada Zagreba Martine Bienenfeld ponovno naglašeno da će zasigurno postati ključan element turističke ponude u Zagrebu.12 Istog dana na stranicama Grada Zagreba ističe se izjava pročelnice Gradskog ureda za gospodarstvo, rad i poduzetništvo Mirke Jozić u kojoj navodi da je njihov cilj da Tunel postane jedinstvena atrakcija kroz koju će poželjeti proći svaki turist.13 Mjesec dana prije, 12. lipnja, otvoren je Art Park, koji omeđuju dva izlaza iz Tunela. Tako su se povezala dva sadržaja grada, koja su prije obnove bila iznimno neugodnim mjestima. Prijašnji nazivi Art Parka dovoljno govore o njegovoj atmosferi: “Pakao”, “Narkić Parkić”. No, inicijativom udruga Pimp my pump i Lapo Lapo14 park se uređuje, slikaju se murali i grafiti te on postaje iznimno ugodnim mjestom gdje roditelji dovode djecu, a mladi svoja popodneva provode upijajući zrake sunca. Istovremeno se u mjestu ratne traume, izvorno Tunelu “Z”, pokušava uspostaviti ugodna atmosfera kojom se zaboravlja njegova povijest. Vjerujem da bi projekt obnove Tunela Grič bez uređenja bivšeg Narkić parkića bio promašaj. Razlog je vrlo jednostavan: ljudi na mjestu neugode ne bi ulazili u tunel koji nosi podznak rata (koji pak trenutno nije transparentan), a iznenađenje izlaska u takav prostor ne bi nagnalo ni stanovnike ni turiste da se odluče na ponovan ulazak ili ga nekome preporuče.

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Fotografija: Facebook / PIMP MY PUMP

Od samog otvorenja Tunel su nastavile pratiti kontroverze. Naime, u Tunelu je otvoreno svih šest izlaza, bez obzira na to što se izlaz na Radićevu ulicu nalazi na privatnom posjedu. To je izazvalo bijes vlasnika, koji su dva dana nakon otvaranja izlaz na Radićevu 19 zablokirali paletama i starim prozorima.15 Ni danas sukob nije razriješen, a izlaz na Radićevu je zatvoren, kao i onaj koji vodi na još uvijek neuređeni dio, a gleda na Ilicu.

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Fotografija: Marko Lukuni/PIXSELL

Nadalje, 16. srpnja fotografski aparati novinara zabilježili su neadekvatan pokušaj postavljanja putokaza – oni su napisani na kartonu crnim markerom, te zalijepljeni na kontejnere. Ova intervencija je došla od strane čuvara, koji su i sami apelirali na to da se postave neki putokazi.16 Putokazi unutar Tunela su u međuvremenu postavljeni na adekvatan način, no oni izvan njega, koji upućuju na postojanje Tunela postavljeni su tek pet mjeseci kasnije.
Još jedan problem na koji je apelirala Cilinger je pitanje sigurnosti. Prema Cilinger, samo su dva izlaza podobna za izlazak u slučaju požara. Naime, osim što su dva zatvorena, u druga dva su instalirani toaleti koji bitno smanjuju prolaznost. No, činjenica jest da se Tunel Grič nije tretirao kao ono što jest – tunel posebne namjene koji podliježe propisima istovjetnima za podzemne garaže. Tako u Tunelu nedostaju odsisni kanali u slučaju požara, senzori za dim, uređaji za vatrodojavu, nema mehaničke ventilacije s ubacivanjem zraka i izbacivanjem zraka te kontrolom dima, nema požarnih sektora s protupožarnim vratima te sprinkler uređaja.17

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Fotografija: Maja Flajsig

“Stalni postav” Tunela Grič
Tunel Grič dosad nije nudio sadržaj u kontinuitetu. U njemu možemo prepoznati pokušaj mračnog turizma, odnosno turizma vezanog specifično uz mjesta vezana uz ljudsku patnju, ratna zbivanja i smrt. Ono se očituje u slabo vidljivim natpisima koji su upućivali građane kretanju tijekom uzbuna (“Zabranjeno je šetati”, “Zabranjeno je pljuvanje na pod”), a koji su, kako saznajem od arhitektice i voditeljice projekta sanacije Loredane Stunić, sačuvani tijekom sanacije zidova Tunela. S druge strane, sadržaj koji pobliže pojašnjava povijest Tunela potpuno izostaje, što naglašavaju turisti, ali i građani. Tijekom neformalnih razgovora koje sam vodila s prolaznicima Tunela saznala sam da građani u jednakoj mjeri u kojoj i turisti smatraju da su natpisi i legende nužne kako bi prostor funkcionirao kao turistička atrakcija, a ne samo pješački koridor. Simptomatična je i neupućenost jedinih zaposlenika koji obitavaju u Tunelu. Zaštitari s kojima sam imala priliku razgovarati nisu raspolagali informacijama o Tunelu, čak do te mjere da jedan od njih nije niti znao da je prvobitno građen kao sklonište. Nadalje, u Tunelu izostaju grafiti napravljeni za vrijeme rave partyja 1993. godine, brišući jedan povijesni sloj koji bi bio reprezentativan turistima. Kako saznajem uvidom u projektnu dokumentaciju, Gradski zavod za zaštitu spomenika kulture i prirode apelira na to da se svi natpisi sačuvaju, jer prema riječima Ane Vranić, stručne savjetnice Zavoda, “Oni su ono što čini Tunel”. Ipak, u razgovoru s arhitekticom Loredanom Stunić saznajem da je unatoč njenim naporima Grad Zagreb, vlasnik Tunela, odlučio prebojati natpise vezane uz UCR. Prema tome zaključujem da brisanje povijesnog sloja zasigurno nije slučajan, te da ovim odabirom vlasti konstruiraju vlastitu povijest koju prezentiraju turistima, ali i građanima kao autentičnu. Loredana Stunić također navodi kako su natpisi iz vremena NDH izuzetno loše očuvani i slabo vidljivi zbog nedovoljno sredstava za restauraciju istih. Iako izostaju iz projektne dokumentacije, izrezbareni natpisi, s datumima i imenima iz 1991. pojavljuju se sporadično, a vidljivi su samo onome tko ih traži, te nisu nikako istaknuti.

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Fotografija: Maja Flajsig

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Fotografija: Maja Flajsig

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Fotografija: http://mixmagadria.com/feature/jedan-jedini-neponovljivi-under-city-rave-93

Tijekom izlazaka na terene u studenom primijećujem da glazba u potpunosti odgovara atmosferi koja se u Tunelu stvara, i njegovoj akustici. Instrumentalna glazba koja prodire iz zvučnika umirujuća je, no kako saznajem iz razgovora s prolaznicima, pomalo sablažnjujuća. Uzimajući u obzir tezu Johna Urryja da je postmoderni muzej onaj u kojem se vrijednost objekata širi spram uobičajene valorizacije umjetničkih slika ili skupocjenog namještaja, povlačim paralelu s Tunelom Grič. Za njega, postmoderni muzej je svaki koji se tiče različitih reprezentacija i značenja povijesti, a posebno su interesantni oni vernakularne naravi18. Kao neka od glavnih obilježja postmodernog muzeja Urry uzima muzeje na otvorenom, muzeje u kojima svira glazba, u kojima ne postoji separacija posjetitelja od onog prezentiranog staklom, a ne izostaju niti multimedijalni pristupi.19 Dakle, iako Tunel Grič zasad nije postao muzej, on bi prema svojim obilježjima pripadao kategoriji postmodernog muzeja (o multimedijalnim pristupima bit će govora kasnije). S druge strane, Urry navodi da muzeji počivaju na premisi aure koju stvara autentični povijesni artefakt20, što Tunel Grič zasigurno jest. Smatram da je aura o kojoj Urry govori u Tunelu Grič neupitna. Naime, u razgovoru s prolaznicima, poznanicima, kolegama i kolegicama saznajem da je osjećaj koji većina njih veže uz Tunel jeza. Jeza koju vežu uz sami prostor, ali i jeza koju vežu uz sjećanja koja nosi taj prostor. Takav prostor obogaćen instrumentalnom glazbom koja po svemu sudeći igra značajnu ulogu te ogoljeni zidovi s natpisima iz NDH (koji, jedva vidljivi možda i pridonose efektu jeze) nosi auru koja može korelirati s ritualnošću muzeja o kojoj govori Carol Duncan. Naime, prema Duncan, ono ritualno u muzeju je liminalno iskustvo koje doživljavamo ulaskom u muzej, koje mijenja naš uobičajeni način ponašanja, i iz kojeg izlazimo promijenjenog stanja svijesti i novih perspektiva.21 Još jedan razlog zbog kojeg bi Tunel Grič mogao pripadati kategoriji postmodernog muzeja je i način njegove uporabe svojstven mnogim hrvatskim muzejima. Da bi se financirali, ondje se održavaju razni domjenci i zabave, a na istu praksu nailazimo i u Tunelu Grič.

Prenamjena prostora i manifestacije

Suprotno najavama, većina manifestacija koje su se ondje odvijale nisu imale veze s turističkom ponudom te su bile zatvorene za javnost. Tako su se u prostorima Tunela Grič od njegovog otvorenja održale dvije modne revije (Hippy Garden i BIPA fashion.hr), jedan domjenak iranskog veleposlanstva povodom godišnjice Hosseinove agresije i Tooloomeshka Halloween nastao po uzoru na UCR 1993. Ipak, za razliku od UCR-a, tulum je bio bolje promišljen te je broj ljudi bio ograničen. Cijena ulaznice bila je puno viša te novci od prodaje nisu išli u humanitarne svrhe kao što je to bio slučaj s UCR-om.

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Fotografija:http://www.sretna.hr/moda-i-ljepota/modne-revije/hippy-garden-revija-u-tunelu-gric/

Međutim, dvije manifestacije otvorile su vrata svim građanima i turistima. U prostoru su Tunela tijekom Bijele noći 1. listopada 2016. bile postavljene svjetlosne instalacije i projekcije dvojca Scenocosme, a od 16. prosinca Tunel je dio Adventa u Zagrebu. U njemu su postavljene božićne jelke, umjetne sante leda i instalacija Ide Blažičko koja visi sa svoda, a na ulice su postavljeni putokazi. Na zidovima se izmjenjuju projekcije, dok je Tunel akustički obogaćen koncertima koji se ondje odvijaju. Nastupaju glazbenici koji sviraju na akustičnim instrumentima i zborovi. No, kao takvi oni samo nadopunjuju prostor ugođajem, jer većina ljudi što prolazi ne zastajkuje ispred glazbenika. Dapače, pjevači i glazbenici u Tunelu funkcioniraju kao ulični svirači: ispred njih je postavljena kutijica za novce. Ljudi kroz Tunel prolaze ili se u njemu fotografira, što apostrofira problematiku vezanu uz sadržajnost Tunela, koji funkcionira kao koridor. Za vrijeme Adventa u Tunelu on bilježi ogroman porast posjetitelja kojima sam i sama svjedočila, te u razgovoru s posjetiteljima saznajem da je mjesto “čarobno” ili “poput bajke”, što je dijametralna suprotnost saznanjima prije Adventa, u “stalnom postavu”.

13

Fotografija: Maja Flajsig

No, situacija se ponovno izokreće po završetku Adventa u Tunelu. Jedan od putokaza u Ilici je slomljen, a unutar Tunela se promjena vidi i osjeća. Simptomatična je i rečenica koju mi je uputio jedan od stražara: “Nemaš tu niš pametnog za vidit!” Naime, pri odlasku na teren u siječnju primijetila sam da se glazba promijenila. Umjesto instrumentalne glazbe koja je odzvanjala o stijenke Tunela, svirala je popularna vesela glazba. Tijekom razgovora s turistima koji su Tunel posjetili prvi put, napomenuli su mi kako bi bilo bolje kad bi svirala neka mirnija glazba te da ova definitivno ne odgovara jezi koju prostor stvara. Zaintrigirala me činjenica da turisti koji nisu posjetili Tunel u kojemu svira instrumentalna glazba upućuju upravo na nju, stoga sam upitala zaštitare zašto je došlo do promjene. Njihov lakonski odgovor me istovremeno zabavio i razočarao: naime, radi se o tome da su izgubili USB na kojemu je bila glazba namijenjena za Tunel te su odlučili puštati vlastitu. Čak su mi ponudili da sama donesem neku glazbu, “dok god nije instrumentalno, slušamo to zadnja 4 mjeseca”. Sam je po sebi dakle indikativan način na koji Grad Zagreb brine o Tunelu, odnosno prepuštanje brige o Tunelu zaposlenicima koji na svoju inicijativu, kako je već spomenuto, pokušavaju poboljšati ponudu. Nadalje, u Tunelu su se počeli pojavljivati grafiti napisani od strane posjetitelja, te naljepnice koje se nalaze na zidovima i instalacijama, ispunjavajući prostor sadržajem koji izostaje. Na terenima u siječnju sam također primijetila kako se u Tunelu zadržava mladež koja ondje pije alkoholna pića, dok starija populacija, uvijek u društvu, Tunel koristi kao koridor. Sve to upućuje na činjenicu da aura o kojoj sam govorila više nije toliko prisutna, bilo da se radi o elementima koji izostaju ili odnos spram povijesnog artefakta koji je oskvrnut grafitima ili se koristi kao prostor za konzumaciju alkohola. Također, primijetila sam da zaštitari upućuju turiste i građane ka izlazu ranije no što to radno vrijeme nalaže, na što su se potužili turisti s kojima sam razgovarala, te primijetili kako bi dulje radno vrijeme bilo povoljnije za turističku ponudu. Iako je radno vrijeme Tunela do 21 sat, turisti i građani su primorani izići u 20:40.

14

Fotografija: Maja Flajsig

15

Fotografija: Maja Flajsig

Turistička promidžba

Iako se medijima o Tunelu mnogo govorilo, primijetila sam da sadržaj koji bi uputio turiste k njemu izostaje. Tek šest mjeseci nakon otvorenja na ulice su postavljeni putokazi, a jedina referentna točka za turiste (koja pak ne nudi informacije o Tunelu) jesu Tripadvisor i Facebook. Naime, na stranicama Turističke zajednice grada Zagreba izostaju informacije o postojanju Tunela Grič, dok je na stranicama Adventa u Zagrebu on spomenut samo kao jedna od lokacija. Slijedom viđenoga, odlučila sam se uputiti u Turističku zajednicu, vjerujući da ću ondje naići neke materijale. Međutim, jedini materijal na koji sam naišla bio je komad papira koji su mi dale službenice Turističke zajednice, napomenuvši mi kako one na svoju ruku izrađuju taj informativni papirić.On sadrži informacije o radnom vremenu Tunela, odakle se u njega može ući, te informacije o tome tko upravlja Tunelom, zajedno s kontaktima istih. Druge brošure o Tunelu ne postoje, a razgovorom sa Željkom Baltorić iz Glavnog ureda Turističke zajednice saznala sam da je u tijeku izrada nove brošure, odnosno vodiča po Zagrebu te da je moguće da će se u nj napisati informacije o Tunelu, no prema riječima gospođe Baltorić u pitanju će biti maksimalno dvije rečenice i eventualno fotografija. 

16

Fotografija: Maja Flajsig

Populizam ili autentičnost?

U medijima se Tunel Grič navodi kao “Spektakularna atrakcija bogate povijesti”22, te je čitavi medijski diskurs o Tunelu konstruiran na temelju toga. Međutim, činjenica jest da je, barem zasad, Tunel Grič korišten više kao kulisa za privatne zabave i koridor za turiste i stanovnike. Projekt obnove Tunela ima puno potencijala. Velika događanja poput Bijele noći i Adventa prilika su Zagrebu da se istakne kao reprezentativno kulturno središte te poveća svoju posjećenost i vidljivost. S druge strane, dok oni ne traju, Tunel postaje atrakcija sama za sebe, bez multimedijalnih projekcija i instalacija. Tada ostaju prostor i njegova sjećanja, njegova povijest. Međutim, “bogata povijest” o kojoj se govori u medijima, turistima je, ali i stanovnicima, potpuno neuhvatljiva. S druge strane, turisti na recenzijama Tripadvisora napominju kako o Tunelu ne nalaze informacije te mu definitivno nedostaje sadržaja.23 Detektirana je dakle, potreba da se povijesnom prostoru dade sadržaj koji će kontekstualizirati Tunel. No, kako je već navedeno, Tunel je od same izgradnje stvarao brojne kontroverze. One prisutne danas su vrlo simptomatične: pitanje autorstva projekata, pitanje dogovora sa stanovnicima Radićeve, pitanje sigurnosti i naposljetku pitanje namjene odraz su puno većeg problema. Problema sporazuma i planiranja realizacije. Upravo stoga neki mediji navode kako se radilo o Bandićevom predizbornom populizmu koji upravo zbog toga nije temeljito promišljen. 24

Neispričana priča

Tunel Grič iznimno je interesantno arhitektonsko dostignuće, ali i nositelj uspomena jednog grada. U potrazi za autentičnošću Grad poseže za jednim spomenikom vremena, no u duhu liberalnog kapitalizma, on ga koristi za poboljšavanje trenutne turističke ponude vezane za Advent ili iznajmljivanje privatnim osobama. Postoji mogućnost da problem leži u razlučivanju toga koje povijesne slojeve bi u Tunelu valjalo prikazati, obzirom na to da vrijeme u koje je nastao često nosi podznak “najmračnijeg doba u Hrvatskoj povijesti”. Također je moguće da problem stvaraju podaci nakon 1949. do kojih je nemoguće doći. Kako prezentirati povijesni sloj o kojemu Ministarstvo obrane ne želi da išta znamo? Vlasnik Tunela, Grad Zagreb, odlučuje o prezentaciji turističke atrakcije, no istovremeno ne postoji usuglašenost institucija po tom pitanju. Ovdje značajnu ulogu igraju zaposlenici Tunela i Turističke zajednice koji se u svakodnevno susreću s pitanjem izostanka esencijalnih informacija o Tunelu te interveniraju na svoju ruku, izrađujući vlastite putokaze i brošure.

Mjesto usko vezano uz ratna zbivanja u sebi je nosilo spomen na nedaće koje su građani doživjeli, na borbu koju su preživjeli. Međutim, danas je trag vremena gotovo u potpunosti nevidljiv. Tunel Grič danas ne nosi priču svog postojanja ni priču vremena u kojem živimo. Nakon njegove obnove i otvaranja za javnost Zagrebu je dat još jedan reprezentativni simbol u nizu koji čine turističke atrakcije poput uspinjače i kule Lotršćak. No, za razliku od potonjih, tunel je trenutno upravo i jedino to – atrakcija.

1 http://www.nacional.hr/tajne-tunela-gric-od-sklonista-i-susreta-pavelica-i-tita-44-do-danasnjeg-prostora-za-muzej-i-setnicu/

2 https://mixmagadria.com/feature/jedan-jedini-neponovljivi-under-city-rave-93

3 http://arhiva.nacional.hr/clanak/120455/tajne-zagrebackih-tunela

4 http://www.nacional.hr/neda-cilinger-nadam-se-da-ce-grad-imati-vise-sluha-za-moj-projekt-i-moje-autorstvo/

5 http://www.nacional.hr/tajne-tunela-gric-od-sklonista-i-susreta-pavelica-i-tita-44-do-danasnjeg-prostora-za-muzej-i-setnicu/

6 http://www.nacional.hr/neda-cilinger-nadam-se-da-ce-grad-imati-vise-sluha-za-moj-projekt-i-moje-autorstvo/

7 http://www.nacional.hr/neda-cilinger-nadam-se-da-ce-grad-imati-vise-sluha-za-moj-projekt-i-moje-autorstvo/

8 http://www.zagreb.hr/default.aspx?id=75588

9 http://www.ppmi.hr/hr/o-nama/zerostrasse/

10 http://www.zagreb.hr/default.aspx?id=75588

11 http://www.vecernji.hr/zg-vijesti/tunel-gric-nije-siguran-jer-nije-rijeseno-sto-u-slucaju-pozara-1133632

12 http://dnevnik.hr/vijesti/hrvatska/otvoren-tunel-gric—442651.html

13 http://www.zagreb.hr/default.aspx?id=92894

14 http://www.tportal.hr/kultura/kulturmiks/431884/Parkic-Narkic-ovog-ljeta-pretvara-se-u-Art-Park.html

15 http://www.tportal.hr/vijesti/hrvatska/435725/Stanari-Radiceve-ne-pustaju-gradane-u-tunel-Gric.html

16 http://www.zagreb.info/foto/tunel-gric/69322

17 http://www.vecernji.hr/zg-vijesti/tunel-gric-nije-siguran-jer-nije-rijeseno-sto-u-slucaju-pozara-1133632

18 John Urry, The Tourist Gaze, Los Angeles – London – New Delhi – Singapore: Sage Publications, 2008., str. 118

19 Ibid. Str.119

20 Ibid., str.118

21Carol Duncan, “The Art Museum As a Ritual”. U The Art of Art History: A Critical Anthology ur. Donald Preziosi. London: Oxford University Press, 1995., str.119

22 http://www.zagreb.info/kultura/o-gradu/svi-smo-fascinirani-tunelom-gric-znate-li-kontroverzne-zanimljivosti-iz-njegove-proslosti/100955

23 http://www.vecernji.hr/zg-zivot/svaka-cast-tunel-gric-je-hit-a-sad-se-jos-ceka-sadrzaj-putokazi-i-blagajne-1125801

24 tp://www.tportal.hr/vijesti/hrvatska/435696/Bandicev-tunel-je-jeftin-predizborni-populizam.html

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