Ljetnikovac Natali-Kocelj

Ljetnikovac Natali-Kocelj

Kategorija stručni članci | 23/05/2017 79

 

Kada se govori o ladanjskoj arhitekturi dubrovačkog kraja, uglavnom se fokus stavlja na uži prostor Dubrovnika i područje Rijeke dubrovačke. O tim se ljetnikovcima već naveliko pisalo, no uglavnom negdje nadomak Župe dubrovačke priča staje, literature je sve manje, a na poznatoj karti s ucrtanim ladanjskim zdanjima, područje jugoistočno od Cavtata nije niti označeno.

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Karta ljetnikovaca Nade Grujić

U Konavlima su ukupno 22 ladanjsko-gospodarska kompleksa izgrađena za vrijeme Republike, a još ih je 6 u Cavtatu. O ladanjskim zdanjima u Konavlima možemo saznati iz stihova starih dubrovačkih pjesnika, iz narodne književnosti, lokalnih kazivanja, starih katastarskih planova, no široj javnosti glavnom su slabo poznata. Većina ih je u derutnom stanju, napuštena, devastirana ratovima, nemarom i opterećena imovinsko-pravnim problemima. Rijetki su prenamijenjeni ili pregrađeni.

Ljetnikovac u Močićima, u oskudnoj literaturi poznatiji kao Natali-Kocelj, zdanje je koje odudara od ostalih. Iako je, prema riječima mještana, stambeni dio gorio čak tri puta, danas je obnovljen.

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Stambeni dio poslije Domovinskog rata: Brautović Julijana i Mato, Povijesno-umjetnička topografija Konavala i stanje očuvanosti spomeničke baštine, Udruga mladih Konavala, 2005.

Obitelj Natali

Odlukom Velikog vijeća 1332., onemogućeno je primanje novih rodova u dubrovačko plemstvo. S obzirom na demografski pad u 17.st. i nedaće 1667., Veliko vijeće nije brojalo niti 100 članova. Tada je Vijeće, tijesnom većinom, odlučilo da se u plemstvo prime oni pučanski rodovi koji mogu dati izdašnu svotu u državnu riznicu. Rod Natali plemićki status dobio je 30.7.1667.

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Grb obitelji Natali: Vekarić, Nenad, Vlastela grada Dubrovnika. Sv.3, Vlasteoski rodovi: (M-Z), HAZU; 2012.

Za pjesnika Jakova Natali (1667.-1713.), pouzdano možemo reći da je obitavao u ljetnikovcu u Močićima. Tamo je boravio u osami, pišući pjesme, razmišljajući, pronalazeći zabavu u lovu kojem je posvetio mnoge stihove. Bio je član Velikog vijeća, Akademije Ispraznijeh, napisao je i dvije pjesme u pohvalu Bara Bettere, a u rukopisu je sačuvana pjesmarica Dnevi moje u kojoj se nalaze stihovi koji su navodno bili upisani na vratima ljetnikovca: G’jako Natali učinio je ove verse na vratima od kamara i upiso na vrata od kamara u Konavlam, u Močićima: na kamari od istoka, na spremi na vrh skala, na kamari od sjevera, na kamari od majstrala.

Ah, nesvjesna ljuska svijesti!

Još od lova tva je scijena,

a znaj da si u bolesti,

posred lova ulovjena.

(Na kamari od sjevera)

Opis ladanjsko – gospodarskog kompleksa

Kompleks se sastojao od stambenog i gospodarskog dijela, cisterne, šetnice i kapelice. Danas nisu svi dijelovi jednako dobro očuvani. U izgradnji su se koristili veliki kameni blokovi. Stambeni dio čine prizemlje i kat, s karakteristično velikim pravokutnim prozorima s kamenim okvirima. Tijekom vremena, mnogi su zazidani, pa nanovo otvarani. Trenutno se mogu vidjeti obrisi samo jednog zazidanog prozora manjih dimanzija i to sa sjeverne strane. Između stambenog dijela i kapelice prostirala se šetnica vidljiva na starijim katastarskim planovima.

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Isječak katastarske karte iz 1837: Vuković Lucija, Ladanjsko-gospodarska arhitektura u Konavlima, diplomski rad, 2002.

Kapelica Male Gospe, iako skromnih dimenzija, ima i glavni i sporedni, privatni ulaz. Ispred privatnog ulaza kameno je popločenje opasano kamenim zidićem. Prije nekoliko godina, uz stari zid podignut je i novi koji se nastavlja uokolo šetnice sve do stambenog dijela. Uz stari zid nailazim na obrađene kamene ulomke za koje nisam ustvrdila odakle potječu. Jedan ulomak služi kao stepenica.

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Kapelica, foto: Lucija Ljubić. 2017.

Promatrajući je izvana, jasno je da je potrjemak nadograđen (svakako prije 1837. što se vidi na katastarskom planu). Glavni je portal ukrašen, a iznad njega je rozeta. Unutrašnjost kapelice vapi za obnovom. Počevši od oslikanog bačvastog svoda, preko bočnih zidova s kojih se guli boja (na dijelu zapadnom zidu zagrebavši ispod bijele boje nailazim na narančastu, što bi značilo da je dio zida oličen (?). U svakom slučaju, nemojte kao ja strugati prstima po zidovima), zatim oltarne slike koja je prilično potamnila, naslaga boje na kamenim okvirima oltara, pa sve do kamenog poda.

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Kapelica, foto: Lucija Ljubić. 2017.

Na oltaru su i dva grba koja službeno nisu atribuirana. S obzirom na oštećenja i sloj boje, nije ni čudno. Ipak, pređete li rukom preko njih, osjetit ćete da se u gornjoj zoni desnog grba nalaze tri zvijezde, zatim blago uvijena pruga, te maleni tropruti motiv. Taj grb neodoljivo podsjeća upravo na grb obitelji Natali. Drugi je grb nešto kompleksniji pod rukom: u gornjoj zoni ima dvije zvijezde (ili dva cvijeta) odijeljene trima (?) tankim prugama, ispod je horizontalna, zadebljana pruga, te u donjoj zoni neobičan ornament u obliku slova V (to se obavezujem istražiti nekom drugom prilikom). Kapelica je u literaturi datirana u 17. st., dok u kutu oltarne slike nailazimo na godinu 1601. S obzirom na stilske karakteristike, moglo bi ju se datirati i ranije. Ostaje i otvoreno pitanje je li ovaj posjed obitelj Natali kupila, a ne izgradila? Ili ga je možda naslijedila?

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Kapelica, foto: Lucija Ljubić. 2017.

Obnovljeni ljetnikovac supružnika Montgomery

Za potrebe ovog članka, William Montgomery, bivši američki veleposlanik, i njegova supruga Lynne, otvorili su mi vrata svog doma i ovim putem im zahvaljujem na gostoprimstvu.

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Preuzeto sa: http://www.realestatecroatia.com/hrv/default.asp

Lynne je otkrila kako su odabrali baš ovo imanje: ‘Živjeli smo u Cavtatu, ali tamo nam je postalo preužurbano, htjeli smo otići negdje gdje je mirnije. Obišli smo cijele Konavle, bili zainteresirani za nekoliko kuća, ali kod vas na svakoj kući nekoliko vlasnika. Npr. pet je vlasnika i ako su četiri za i jedan protiv – ne možete je kupiti. Ovdje smo imali sreće da su bila samo dva vlasnika i oba su pristala na prodaju. U imanje sam se zaljubila odmah. Od početka sam imala viziju kako bih ga htjela urediti. Kupili smo ga 2009.’ William se pak uz smijeh prisjetio: ‘Prvi put sam u dvorištu zatekao djecu koja se igraju, a drugi put – koze!’

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Stambeni dio za vrijeme obnove, foto: dubrovnik.net.hr, 10.2.2010. 

U prizemlju, na mjestu današnje kuhinje i blagovaonice, nekada se nalazila mlinica. O tome svjedoče dvije velike rupe u podu koje vlasnici nisu htjeli zatrpati, već su u njih usuli žale i na vrhu ih prekrili staklom. Ostatke mlinice prodali su jednoj ženi u selu.

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Preuzeto sa: http://www.realestatecroatia.com/hrv/default.asp

Masivne željezne šipke pronađene u vrtu upotrijebljene su kao dekoracija uz prolaz. Također su vidljivi nosači nekadašnjih drvenih greda, koje je kasnije zamijenio svod. William kaže kako je svod u renovaciji bio problematičan: ‘Htjeli smo da i dalje ostane zaobljen, pa se pojavio problem sa statikom kata. Predlagali su da se sruši, no na kraju su pronašli rješenje.’

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Preuzeto sa: https://tranio.com/

Lynne kaže kako su htjeli kupiti i kapelicu koja je dio kompleksa, no ona nije bila na prodaju. Također ističe: Iako je službeno privatna, vidim da je selo doživljava kao zajedničku i nema problema ako želite ući u nju.’

Prošetale smo zatim vrtom s južne strane gdje je bio bunar s kamenom krunom: ‘Prijašnji vlasnik nas je zamolio da si ga uzme i dali smo mu ga. Nadam se da nije uništen. Sad mi je baš žao da ga nemamo. Inače, izgled vrta smo dosta promijenili, imamo i bazen. Inzistirali smo na što više kamena, posadili smo maslinik, htjeli smo nešto autentično u vrtu. Znali smo da je kuća prilično stara, ali nismo znali za tako bogatu povijesnu pozadinu. Mislila sam da nije starija od 200 godina. Čudi me da ju neke institucije nisu kupile prije nas.’

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Preuzeto sa: http://www.realestatecroatia.com/hrv/default.asp

Sa sjeverne strane, između kuće i kapelice nekadašnja šetnica pretvorena je u oranicu. Manji dio nasut je šljunkom i služi kao parking.

Iako su nas nagovarali da puno toga srušimo i gradimo ispočetka, ustrajali smo u tome da se što više zatečenog iskoristi i renovira. Naknadno sam saznala da smo zbog toga mogli imati problema, jer je ovo ipak na neki način zaštićeno. Radovi oko kamenih zidova koštali su iznad svih očekivanja. Kamen je bio jako crn, od plamena, a i dugo je trebalo dok se sve nanovo fugalo… Preuređenje je trajalo 4 godine, u međuvremenu se suprug razbolio pa nismo bili sigurni hoćemo li odustati od svega. Danas nam je drago da nismo.’

Imanje nalazi na stranici jedne agencije za prodaju nekretnina, ali kažu kako nemaju ozbiljnu namjeru, barem za sad, išta prodavati: ‘Zapravo smo htjeli vidjeti koliko imanje sada vrijedi i kakav bi bio interes ako bismo se jednog dana odlučili na prodaju. Ovdje nam je stvarno lijepo. Ipak, nekada imam osjećaj da ljudi misle: ah, lako je njima, imaju novce, imaju lijepu kuću… A zapravo nisu svijesni koliko nije lako biti stranac, posebno u ovako maloj sredini.’

Lijepa je ovo priča o starom ljetnikovcu koji je nakon mnogih godina obnovljen u sklopu luksuznog imanja, a time mu je vraćen sjaj kojeg je davno izgubio. Nadam se da je ovo tek prva u nizu priča o obnovljenim ladanjsko – gospodarskim kompleksima u Konavlima koja su nekad bila na ponos obiteljima i veličanstveni ukrasi u vizurama mjesta. Do nekog idućeg puta, možemo se samo nadati da će vlasnici, lokalna zajednica i vlast prepoznati kulturnu, povijesnu i umjetničku važnost ovakvih lokaliteta i o njima konačno početi skrbiti.

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